Build, In What Order? - Page 2 - Ram Promaster Forum
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post #11 of 18 Old 05-16-2017, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Winston View Post
We hacked the van sides first - - i.e. the windows.

Concerning wiring . . . much of our wiring has been 'fed' through the interior of structural support members allowing us to add/make changes to the wiring virtually at the last minute (we haven't insulated these members). HOWEVER, we prewired the floor for water (we have a city water connection on the driver's side that supplies water to the galley and fresh water tank on the passenger side) and several runs of 120VAC. There is, incidentally, a narrow, about 1", transverse (left/right) 'break' in the floor ribbing (halfway between the B pillars and the wheel wells that makes for a good spot to run transverse hose/wiring. Our floor is comprised of 1/2" polyiso under 1/2" plywood. We had to notch the polyiso above this transverse 'path' in order to fit the water supply hose (1/2" PEX A - - probably wouldn't use PEX A, now, but we didn't know better).
That transverse run is good to know about.
I'm hoping to keep water to just one side of the van, but you never know.
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post #12 of 18 Old 05-17-2017, 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by MsNomer View Post
Also, I would have no overhead electrical runs if I could do it over. It would have been so easy to run it under the floor.
I appreciate learning from you who've done, and so thanks for sharing this. But it seems counterintuitive.

The framing/ribs (vertical and horizontals) that go up the wall and across the roof create what would seem to be a natural cavity or chase to run wire, especially for lighting and vent fan. The floor, mine anyway, will be layers of polyiso, plywood, closed cell foam, with no inherent cavities present. Can you elaborate on why you think in hindsight it would be easier to run all electrical runs under the floor and avoid doing so overhead? Thanks!

Last edited by ananda; 05-17-2017 at 01:16 AM.
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post #13 of 18 Old 05-17-2017, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by ananda View Post
The framing/ribs (vertical and horizontals) that go up the wall and across the roof create what would seem to be a natural cavity or chase to run wire, especially for lighting and vent fan.
We'll let MsNomer raise her own explanation but we tend to agree with you and have liberally used those "natural . . . races" where appropriate. To put a balance on this, we did not adopt an all or nothing rule and used "pre-plywood" floor runs where practical. We found the 'floor approach' useful for our one water run (city water inlet on driver side to galley on passenger side) as both the inlet and the galley destination are "low" and . . . . the semi-flexible tubing we were using didn't like the 'tight bends' necessary for an over-the-top trajectory. As our AC switch panel was low on the driver's side we also elected to run much of our AC wiring across that one previously mentioned transverse floor 'channel'.

2016 159" HT (Standard Length) Gas
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post #14 of 18 Old 05-18-2017, 12:08 AM
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We took a different approach to the wiring runs.
We didn't go under any flooring or use the overhead 'raceways'.
Why? Because we didn't have to, and we saw what appeared for our build
to be quicker/easier/and with future access to 90% of our wire runs if ever needed.

We have a bed and big shelf under it and ran most of our wires under each, using the underside
of the shelf or bed to cross to the other side-

So yes if you sit down on the floor in the 'den' area you can look and see the conduit, some might not like that; but as mentioned
above if I ever need easy access to the runs they are there

Forgot to mention, one reason we didn't want to use the overhead raceways (and if memory serves I can thank MsNomer for this) is that we'd be setting screws into the raceways attaching things (ceiling panels) and this negated the possibility of hitting any wires. Another reason is that it is hard enough getting insulation into the raceways, would be harder if wires are there....I don't think wires per se count much for insulation.

Of course two big items -aircon and fan- do have wires in the ceiling

Last edited by medicineman4040; 05-18-2017 at 12:14 AM.
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post #15 of 18 Old 05-19-2017, 09:17 AM
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I've done the followings things in this order so far:
1. Sound deadening (dynamat)
2. Floor (final layer of vinyl hardwood planks will go on after all furniture is installed)
3. Window
4. Maxxfan
5. Slide out bike tray (not permanently mounted yet)
6. Wall Insulation
7. Wheel well boxes
8. Air conditioner

I think next I'll insulate the ceiling, 2nd start working on the bed, then possibly cabinets.

I don't think I'm going to run any wires in the ribs in the ceiling. Going to screw ceiling onto those. I'm gong to run 1, 3/4 flexible conduit (smooth on the inside) across next to a rib in the middle. This should be enough for the few wires running across to the passenger side and it makes it easy to run more in the future.

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post #16 of 18 Old 05-19-2017, 10:03 AM
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My reason: After MrN filled the space with conduit, there was no room for insulation. And the wiring is now virtually inaccessible. We could easily have run it in the 3/4" space below the drawers where it would been easily accessible and would not have impacted anything else.
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post #17 of 18 Old 05-19-2017, 02:33 PM
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I had to do my insulating in different phases. Most done before wiring but had to leave some areas so it wouldn't interfere with running wires, then completed insulation in those areas. Then some areas needed to be completed after I finalized some issues/decisions with the trim.
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post #18 of 18 Old 05-20-2017, 10:14 PM
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I did it in this order:

Sound deadening and insulation for areas not being cut
Install floor rug
Install bed platform and bed
Removed rug and bed
Install windows and roof fan
Reinstall floor rug and bed
Rough in wires
Install battery
Strap in refrigerator
Remove refrigerator
Install cabinets
Install refrigerator
Complete sound deadening and insulation
Complete electrical
Finish up all the odds and ends I forgot
Go back and do things I should have done early in the build like install an outside receptacle for shore power.

Sometimes getting out there and using your van gets in the way of a logical work flow.

2016 PM 136 Low Roof Gas Engine.
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