Sell or convert to camper van - Page 2 - Ram Promaster Forum
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post #11 of 16 Old 05-01-2017, 10:06 AM
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We went Hein Thinsulate for 95% of the insulation journey.
The other 4% was a mixture of a proprietary insulation sold by PromasterAccessories
and 1% the non-itch no formaldehyde pink insulation.
We ended up with 4 inches if Thinsulate throughout the majority of the van excepting
the cab over area where we only got 1 two inch layer in.
It's been Florida test at 95 degrees and did well.
We've yet to give it a cold weather test.

Gary, a frequent contributor here, went with spray-in foam and I think he said he'd not
got that route again.
Personally I'm a fan of rigid foam board, I just couldn't talk the she-boss into it---the believed
that it squeaks. Many here have proven time and time again that it doesn't.
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post #12 of 16 Old 05-18-2017, 12:17 PM
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I consciously limited the amount of money I spent on a campervan conversion knowing it would add very little to resale. Insulating, paneling, upholstery, house battery, mechanics cabinets, CLR window, flooring and 2 maxx air fans ran around 4K. I use my van as a cargo van so my platform bed is 4 panels and hinged so it folds and tucks tightly against both sides of the van. Removable square 1 inch aluminum tubing supports the bed. When not used the tubing goes into a ski bag and takes up zero space. Just my 2 cents.
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post #13 of 16 Old 05-18-2017, 01:46 PM
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I insulated my van using a two bottle urethane spray foam kits from Home Depot.
All the gory details here:

In a nutshell the DIY spray foam approach is doable, fairly cheap, and results in a good insulation job that does a good job of protecting the van skin from condensation.
It probably takes a bit less time than insulating with rigid polyiso glued to the van skin with Great Stuff Pro. But, its "higher pressure" on you if you have never done it before (like me).

If I were doing it myself again, I'd use the rigid Polyiso glued in place with Great Stuff. Seems like, its a bit cheaper, its easier and does not have as many opportunities to screw up, and I don't see why it would not result in just a good an insulation job as the spray foam, and provide about the same protection from condensation on the inside of the van skin.

So, I think they both result in a good insulation job, and the polyiso is a bit less expensive and a bit easier to do.

But, if you have a local guy that has experience spraying foam in vans and you can do the masking (time consuming) and get a good price, that seems like a good way to go to me. I'd just talk to the guy about how he is going to prevent distortion of the van skin as the urethane cures -- if he is unaware of this potential problem, then I'd be a bit wary.


136 WB PM, high roof, 1500, gasser
SW Montana
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post #14 of 16 Old 05-20-2017, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the input, lots of great feedback

Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
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post #15 of 16 Old 05-20-2017, 07:10 AM
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I limited mine to about the same because I am cheap. I squeezed in a $600+ refrigerator and a nearly $900 Espar heater into a $4600 conversion.
Now I have spent $900 for lowered seat bases and another swivel. It hurt.

2015 136" HT Diesel Sandstone Metallic Born on 6/12/2015 Campervan build see:
Have Leatherman, Will Travel
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post #16 of 16 Old 05-20-2017, 12:25 PM
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Regarding the noise: I completely covered the rear wheel wells in sound absorbtion mat (the stuff that's made of lead with a layer of sticky rubber added and sold as a sheet). That plus a vanrug (precut carpet+foam floor cover) and road noise is seriously reduced. Before you go any further with noise reduction efforts, just cover the wheel wells from the inside of the van and put something on the floor and see if you're satisfied.
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