Does anyone secure their subfloor to the van? - Page 2 - Ram Promaster Forum
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post #11 of 19 Old 05-13-2017, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
Shaun
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Wow... ALL great info! Thanks everyone.
I think I'm going to lay down some polyiso as an insulation barrier then put my plywood back on top. I'll probably use the tie downs and most likely do some self tapping screws here and there to make sure it's secure and level.
Much appreciated!
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post #12 of 19 Old 05-13-2017, 11:52 AM
Winston
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We did not 'formally' secure our 1/2" polyiso and 1/2" birch plywood to the van. But but by the time we completed the 3-section bed, the galley, the dinette bench and raised dinette floor, and the frig - - most held to the van floor through the otherwise 'floating' poly/plywood - - the floor isn't going anywhere and shows no signs of bulging.

2016 159" HT (Standard Length) Gas
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post #13 of 19 Old 05-13-2017, 02:57 PM
GaryBIS
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Hi,
I used Great Stuff urethane foam to glue down the polyiso insulation and then plywood.

Pictures here: http://www.buildagreenrv.com/our-con...sion-flooring/

Its been in use for 3 years with no problem.

Gary

136 WB PM, high roof, 1500, gasser
SW Montana
www.BuildAGreenRV.com
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post #14 of 19 Old 05-14-2017, 08:29 AM
Josh Cissell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaun View Post
Wow... ALL great info! Thanks everyone.
I think I'm going to lay down some polyiso as an insulation barrier then put my plywood back on top. I'll probably use the tie downs and most likely do some self tapping screws here and there to make sure it's secure and level.
Much appreciated!
Just a heads up, my plan was to use the self tapping tek screws that seapro used but couldn't get them to bite and hold. I feel much better having used the bolts with large washers under the van. Just use a forstner bit and recess the head.

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post #15 of 19 Old 05-14-2017, 10:57 AM
seapro
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I had no problems with getting TEK screws to hold. I drilled the countersinks first then drilled the screws in. I aimed to hit high spots of the ribbed structure. You need to push down hard on the drill to penetrate the metal. Once the screw drills into the metal and pulls down stop drilling or you strip the threads. I also used that type of screw holding stuff to the van walls without problems.
.
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post #16 of 19 Old 05-16-2017, 12:17 AM
Josh Cissell
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Originally Posted by seapro View Post
I had no problems with getting TEK screws to hold. I drilled the countersinks first then drilled the screws in. I aimed to hit high spots of the ribbed structure. You need to push down hard on the drill to penetrate the metal. Once the screw drills into the metal and pulls down stop drilling or you strip the threads. I also used that type of screw holding stuff to the van walls without problems.
.
You have to drill the countersinks first. I didn't on my the test screws. That was the problem. Any reason why you didn't just use regular self tapping screws?

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post #17 of 19 Old 05-16-2017, 10:02 AM
seapro
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Regular self tapping screws thread through the wood then the metal and then as they tighten down they jack the wood up away from the metal and/or strip the thread made in the metal. Also regular self tapping screws have a course pitch thread; TEKs have a finer thread which works better in the hard but thin metal. The TEK screws work differently as they have a tiny wing just below the threads and above the drill point.

You first drill only the cone shaped countersink. Then you drill the TEK through the wood from the base of the countersink. The wing makes the hole through the wood slightly larger than the threaded shaft of the screw and you keep pushing down hard on the machine. The drill point penetrates the metal, the wing breaks off and the screw threads into the metal. As it does it pulls the wood/insulation sandwich down tight and you stop before the threads strip in the metal. The secret is that the hole through the wood is very slightly larger so the screw is not trying to thread in the wood.
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post #18 of 19 Old 05-17-2017, 04:30 PM
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I have 3/4" ply over a sheet of Polyiso. I used all of the threaded tie down points and added several additional bolts drilled through the floor. I used flat head tapered type bolts that recess flush with the floor. Like mentioned above, drilling the holes correctly for the tie down points took some measuring but the other bolts were easier - measure the right location and drill up from the bottom.
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post #19 of 19 Old 05-17-2017, 10:02 PM
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For flooring we used this on top of the bare metal-
http://www.bedrug.com/products/cargo.../van-tred.html
On top of that we used this flooring-
http://legendfleet.com/product/kk-pl...wood-flooring/
Holding it down is a pair of Slide-masters-
https://www.slide-master.com/rv-cargo-slide/
Each slide master has 10 3/8 bolts all the way through floor/metal.
Also holding the floor down is the 80/20 cabinet and the coach batteries.
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