Wiring everything into a busbar? - Ram Promaster Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 05-17-2017, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
El Guapo
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Wiring everything into a busbar?

Is it acceptable to connect a busbar to a ground wire that grounds to a pillar then run all other grounds in the van (battery, 12v fuse block, inverter, solar charger, etc) to the bus bar?

On the positive side, is it acceptable to run a wire from the positive terminal of the house battery to a busbar, then run all the positive loads (12v fuse block, positive to inverter, positive from solar charger, etc) to the busbar or should they all go directly to the battery?

If these are acceptable, if I go to a two batter system is it ok to wire both batteries to a common busbar or should they be wired directly to each other?
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post #2 of 8 Old 05-17-2017, 04:46 PM
RDinNHandAZ
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Garage
Ground bus bar- good, ground it directly to a heavy part of the vans ribs by removing paint, coating with dielectric grease and bolting. No reason to run a wire but a properly sized one is OK.

Positive bus bar good, wire from positive to busbar then to individual circuits with fusing.

Batteries should be in series and connected to each other if 6 volt and parallel and connected if 12 volt, no reason to wire each to a busbar when one properly sized wire will suffice.

Acceptable and best practice may not be the same thing.

2015 136" HT Diesel Sandstone Metallic Born on 6/12/2015 Campervan build see: http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/...ad.php?t=37177
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post #3 of 8 Old 05-17-2017, 04:47 PM
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That's how I did it on my ground side.

2014, High Top/159 WB, 2500 gas Promaster camping conversion. http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/...ad.php?t=43121
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post #4 of 8 Old 05-17-2017, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
El Guapo
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Awesome, thanks you guys. I'm anxious to get this wiring finalized and start slinging wood.
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post #5 of 8 Old 05-17-2017, 06:19 PM
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Make sure to size the cables going from the buss bars to the chassis ground and battery positive large enough for all your combined loads and/or the max amperage supplied by your charge sources.

For safety, there should be a main large fuse or breaker at or near the positive terminal to protect the cable going to the positive buss bar. Many folks get a Bluesea fuse panel which serves as both positive buss and a place for the individual fuses.

Newer vehicles are put together with adhesives (not as much welding) so the chassis may not be the best low resistance path to the negative terminal on the batteries. Especially for high combined loads.
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post #6 of 8 Old 05-17-2017, 07:56 PM
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Hi,

I think that the busbar for the positive loads with a heavy wire from the busbar to the + battery terminal is fine.

I'd do the same thing for the negative busbar. That is, run a heavy wire from the negative busbar directly to the negative terminal of the battery.

If you ground the busbar to the chassis, it needs to be a heavy wire capable of carrying the sum of all your loads, which could be well over 100 amps, and it needs a very careful connection to the chassis. Then you will need a similar connection from the negative terminal of the battery to the chassis -- again sized for the sum of all your loads and very carefully connected to the chassis. The alternative is to just run a heavy wire capable of carrying the sum of all your loads directly from the negative busbar to the negative terminal of the battery. The 2nd approach seems like less work to me and is less likely to fail over time. Chassis connections are notorious for failure over time due to corrosion where the wire to chassis connection is made. I never use chassis grounds except for the safety ground of the battery negative terminal to the chassis.

Bluesea.com sells some busbars that are popular.

Gary

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136 WB PM, high roof, 1500, gasser
SW Montana
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post #7 of 8 Old 05-17-2017, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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And by "sum of all the loads" would that also include loads going from the battery to the inverter? A 2000w inverter could be pulling ~200 amps. Pretty big wire.

Last edited by El Guapo; 05-17-2017 at 08:44 PM.
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post #8 of 8 Old 05-17-2017, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Guapo View Post
And by "sum of all the loads" would that also include loads going from the battery to the inverter? A 2000w inverter could be pulling ~200 amps. Pretty big wire.
Right -- the BlueSea Circuit Wizard calculator will tell you the size:
http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/

Looks like AWG 2 or AWG 1 if the wires are not too long.

Gary

136 WB PM, high roof, 1500, gasser
SW Montana
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