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test fit....electrical box and 80/20 extrusion

5K views 22 replies 7 participants last post by  proeddie 
#1 ·
Kinda of a test for fit and look.
I think we have 10 electrical boxes planned.
Each one will have AC and DC. Each will be
mounted to 80/20 extrusion under our big shelf, under
the bed, or in the electrical cabinet.
 

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#2 ·
looking good! did you pick up a converter unit for shore power? just wondering what you vent with. I salvaged one from a pop up camper I had laying around but I'm looking to upgrade and add an inverter now that I'm going with a 2nd battery and the dc/dc charger.
 
#5 ·
Our converter for shore power is the Samlex EVO 2212.
In the electrical cabinet, well I call it that but the electrical is just the bottom section, there is a fold down desk, behind it two
outlets, his and her computer/camera battery charging stations....and two outlets. Those two outlets have AC/USB.
Shelf above has two outlets that are AC/DC for microwave and tv/dvd.
I'm glad you mentioned this because honestly I'd forgotten about the AC/USB outlets.
 
#10 ·
Cigarette Lighter Outlets

Those two outlets have AC/USB.
Did we tell you how much we hate cigarette lighter outlets? To keep this a family show, let it suffice to note that we endured too many intermittent, faulty connections, literally, with 'melt-downs', smoke, smells, even flames to continue with this default 12 volt distribution solution. We adopted, instead, simple Molex 2-pin connectors. Pictured here is how we recently (yesterday) converted one of those popular USB/12v cigarette lighter duo's into our standard:

 
#7 ·
MM,

You don't show the electrical box without the cover. I'm hoping there is a separator piece in the box. On house wiring, if you put 120VAC and low voltage in the same box, they must have a separator in the box. It's a plastic piece that slides in to compartmentalize the two sides.

You probably did, but a picture here would be a good idea for future viewers/members!
 
#14 ·
Yes minimizing running cords to appliances/phones/laptops/cameras (we have several cameras that charge via USB), batteries chargers (3-4 different types depending on target species). Plus the fold down desk we'll both sit at with the laptops, well AC and DC in one box would have helped.

Obviously I don't know electrical code, or electrical science so I do wonder why you can't put the two in the same box ???
Not that it matters. I will comply.
This does double the amount of conduit I'll have to run correct?
Romex for AC definetly goes into conduit but does the DC also have to be in conduit?
Fish out of water I am AND Poof is almost done with the big 80/20 cabinet=almost show time for me.

And MsNomer you asked why so many?
In the cabinet upper shelf one set of plug-ins for the microwave/TV DVD...either can run on AC or DC depending on which I buy and might change AC for DC in the future or vice verse.
Next shelf down the laptop/camera charging area, so outlets on the left and right just like above. So that is already 4 boxes, but now 8 :(
On the big shelf 'den' side one box (again now 2 :() far left under shelf-can easily reach when standing out the sliding door. In the middle of the shelf mid-way toward the back AC/DC for the refrigerator-it can run on either and I didn't want to run long wires to it. On same side of the big shelf on the back another AC/DC so when you open the back doors there it is for the Boss shower or whatever. The Boss I think can run/charge on either.
Under the bed same story. One AC/DC drivers side (for my phone/whatever), one under the feet.
Both bed and big shelf have lights in the center. Big shelf lights light up the Slide-master below, under bed lights light up the big shelf. Each light centered and toward the edge.
Then there is the overhead lighting.......
Too much?
Overkill?
Future needs?
I admit I don't know.
 
#15 ·
None of it has to be in conduit. The conduit protects the wire from chafing and makes it easier to replace it if you have to later on. I use conduit to keep it neater and safer but I also use wire ties to accomplish the same thing in some places especially 12v.

It's not a good idea to mix 110vac & 12vdc in the same box (in my opinion) because of the possibility of shorts or even connecting the wrong receptacle type to the wrong wire. Not worth the trouble (to me anyhow) but if you do it use a separator to be safe.

You can use the same kind and size of wire for both (stranded) but if you don't know or remember if it's for 110 or 12 later on you are SOL and asking for trouble. That's one reason I usually just feed the 12vdc + to the receptical and ground the other side to the chassis or a ground buss bar where the 110 box should have the +, -, and ground wires going to it.

If you don't know what you're doing don't even think of mixing them in the same box! I know how to do it and I would never consider mixing them, legal or not.
 
#17 ·
MM try to think of the 110vac and 12vdc a two totally independent, separate and disconnected parts of your conversion. Yes they both do a similar job and use similar, if not the same materials (wire, boxes) but they do it very differently and by trying to combine them to save on boxes or make it easier without knowing what you are doing exactly you are asking for problems.
 
#19 · (Edited)
MM,

Hope I didn't cause too much stress!

In home wiring, code says they must be separate. Picture an electrical box where you have an 120VAC outlet and, on the other side, cable TV jacks, speaker wires, network. Now picture that one of the AC wires comes loose from its connection and touches a low voltage circuit. Instant fried cable box, sound system (and everything connected to it), computer network (and the computers, routers, printers, etc connected to it.) It's a lot like a lightening strike!

In your van, the odds of a 120V wire coming loose are probably greater (houses don't bounce around on bumpy roads, etc.) Imagine the destruction an AC to low voltage connection could do... charging circuits, inverter, exploding aux battery, smoke, fire... perhaps even a severe rash! >:D



There's nothing wrong with the dual setup you have. And, the boxes with a plastic add-on partition are readily available at Home Depot, Lowes... You can also buy a box that is a single with the ring that extends the width of two outlets. One outlet goes in the box, the low voltage stuff doesn't need a box, just a way to hold the plate with the sockets on it.

 
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