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MsNomer: Hiker's Paradise

108K views 169 replies 38 participants last post by  RDinNHandAZ 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
This will be a slow build because we spend so much time hiking. I did get a small start, though, before we leave this weekend.

The first improvement was a floor mat from Eurocampers. "Dark Grey" is darker than in the pictures, but light enough to brighten the cabin a bit. The fit is excellent. The hold-downs are for carpet, so I will do a bit of modification to anchor it to the seats. So far, it hasn't moved, though.

Because Photobucket hijacked her photos in this thread, MsNomer has created a website detailing her build: msnomersvan.wordpress.com
 
#99 ·
MsNomer, What do you call your metal framing for your galley? Did you find it at a home store or metal supply store. I need to build a substantial box with a shelf for my 4 house batteries 90#'sX4. Thinking that would make great framing... TIA
 
#102 · (Edited by Moderator)
Mosquito Screen

This project is not completely finished, but we just took it for an overnight test run and it has greatly exceeded our expectations, so I just can't wait to post. It is actually dual purpose--it will be part of my rain protection.


Total cost: about $60 with leftovers that can be used elsewhere, but not including the second screen I will use for the rear. Skill required: the ability to sew a straight seam.

I started with this screen from Amazon. Notice that it only fits openings 34” wide. It is actually 36” wide with Velcro on top and sides. I chose this one after extensive reading of the reviews. It is high quality, well-made, and functions well.



First I removed the side Velcro. It came off clean without damage to the screen assembly. I then cut 9.5" off the bottom. The bottom banding is a separate piece, so i removed it, cut 9.5" off the screen, then sewed the banding back on. I will admit, though, that the banding wants to stick under my pressure foot, so this was tedious.

I installed the hook side of industrial strength Velcro across the top inside of the door (almost horizontal) and on the underside of the metal floor. I chose this one because it is rated to 140°. I learned my lesson when the adhesive on some fastener I used on the truck tent turned to goo in the heat.



For the side panels, I turned to my favorite outdoor fabric supplier for their heavy-coated 1.9 oz ripstock nylon. Lucky me, the light sage is an almost perfect match for the van. This stuff is a dream to work with. Lightweight, tough as nails, does not fray.

http://www.questoutfitters.com/coated.html#Coated Fabrics

Two yards was not quite long enough, and something a bit tougher would be good on the bottom, so I tacked on scraps from a tent I bought for parts. Probably not necessary. I sewed some of the Velcro loop I salvaged from the sides of the screen across the top and bottom.

Now here's what makes this installation so easy. Once the sides are taut between top and bottom, the sides become irrelevant to the functioning of the screen opening. All stress is sheer across the Velcro, so already before doing anything to the outer edges, the screen is more secure than it would be in its originally intended house door opening. It is so taut something would bounce off of it.

On the front side, the only issue is working around the black styrofoam (still working on that, but the rest of the way down can just be a few magnets and a cutout for the door latch. (Magnets will be encased in the fabric.)


The rear side depends on what else is there. I worked around my cabinet and took it outside below the projection.



This is the top inside with Thinsulate in the holes. I have decided that the covering across the top of the door should be black.
Green masking tape from the auto parts store is one of my best friends in the shop and was a godsend on this project. It sticks well to the tent fabric, yet comes off easily with no residue.

Good points:
  • Because this material is so thin, the door is fully operable with the screen in place!! Even the magnets just sitting there loose on the outer front edge did not budge in 120 miles of driving.
  • most of the installation can be done from the inside with the door closed, so if bugs are bad, you dont let so many in during installation.
  • It does not interfere with visibility through the side door window, so it can be left up as long as it will be needed.
  • There's not a bunch of Velcro stuck around the door. The strip above the door on the inside is almost invisible. The strip under the floor is totally invisible.

Bad points:
  • To work properly, it can not drag the floor, so it would not keep out creepy crawlies.
  • Tall or large folk could have an issue with the relatively small opening.

When I was removing the bottom part, I discovered the neat rod magnets it was using. I figured they would be good for the sides (they are). Since I couldn't find them anywhere else, I bought a second screen. Without its magnets, I will use it for the rear.

My awning will be made of this same tent material--we approach these projects from our own experiences. It is about half finished. With these two in place, I look forward to enjoying the rain.

Because Photobucket hijacked her photos in this thread, MsNomer has created a website detailing her build: msnomersvan.wordpress.com
 
#107 · (Edited by Moderator)
Driver Side C-Pillar

For a year and a half I looked at this:


I knew that eventually, the answer would come. First step was the side pieces. For the photo, I arranged them provacatively, but in place, they frame the eyesore with a projection that matches the metal. Unfortunately, I didn't take a photo of them in place by themselves.


I first tried to span them with luan, but even with steam, the curvature was too much and the luan cracked. Fortunately, I was able to salvage the side pieces for a second attempt. This time I remembered exhibits I had seen in the Gaudi museum in Barcelona. I spanned with 1/8" lath cross-sections of Baltic Birch. I could have gotten a smoother surface with pine, but I wanted the horizontal striations. Here is the backside lathered in glue:

Here is the front side shaped and painted. I was tempted to play chicken and leave the edges square, but decided I would take the chance and sculpt them. I'm really glad I did:

These show the profile which follows the curvature of the metal:




And here is what I look at now, at least til I get that last trim piece up, which should be a breeze.


The thermometer at the bottom used to attach directly to the metal with its magnets. Now it is attracted to those honking magnets shown in the first photo. The acrylic mirror wedged above it is sloped just right for applying sunscreen.

I assume I will do something similar on the other side by and around the door, but it will be more difficult.

Because Photobucket hijacked her photos in this thread, MsNomer has created a website detailing her build: msnomersvan.wordpress.com
 
#110 ·
Actually, the dermatologist just chided me for NOT wearing lipstick. ?

Funny--I was pretty giddy while making this. Lots of fun, actually. Now when I look at it, it's just the way it's supposed to look, like normal, no reflection whatsoever of its 18-month incubation period or the crazy stuff behind the scene. That's the best kind, I guess.
 
#113 ·
I cut the profile that lies flat first. I made a paper template--one side following the metal protrusion, the other a pleasing curve about an inch out.

I stuck these on with double stick tape, then scribed the outward protrusion onto the inside surface. Where it wasn't deep enough, I glued a second layer on.

Bandsaw and belt sander were my best friends. It really was a fun project and not particularly difficult.
 
#114 · (Edited)
Beautiful work on the trim piece and screen door. Did you get the solar panels installed using our pads? Some photos of that would be nice if you have time to share them.


Celtec would be a great material for making trim like that. I can provide you with some scraps if you are interested. The 3mm thickness bends easily without splitting. I also have 19, 12, 9 and 6 mm thicknesses. It bonds together great using thin CA.
 
#115 ·
Hein, I addressed your bases in my "Adding Solar” thread. I guess I should repeat or cross-reference in this main thread. The bases worked perfectly and we are thrilled to have 16 fewer holes on the roof. We are not worried about the VHB coming loose because of the fat footprints.

I notice I also haven't addressed the new battery boxes, the articulating bed or the completed rear window screen. Too busy having fun, I guess.

Thank you for the scraps offer. I will email you.
 
#116 · (Edited by Moderator)
The Awning

Like some of the other projects in this build, the result is simple, but the result of an embarrassing incubation period.

My first attempt was to Velcro the awning to the top inside of the door opening. That didn't work because it leaked around the front corner.

Then I sewed a tube for a 6-foot tent pole and hooked it to the front two anchors on the roof with D-rings--the tent pole allowed me to extend it forward past the opening. RD and KOV observed that the tent pole interfered with attaching the D-rings.

One day I spied a short tool handle in the shop--essentially a 2-foot dowel with a tapered end. AHA!! Stick the stick into the front of the tube and hang 'er up.


Two poles from Cabelas and some guy lines. I put that tent pole across the middle.

Length is what it is because I sewed two scrap pieces together. It works well. The curtain part can be fastened to the poles or tied up. I wish this has been one of my first projects.

Because Photobucket hijacked her photos in this thread, MsNomer has created a website detailing her build: msnomersvan.wordpress.com
 
#117 ·
Ms,

I don't know if you noticed, but....

CONGRATS ON YOUR 1000th POST !!!!!! :):):):):):):)

(it's a good one. I was thinking about a similar plan.... good to see it works!)

Ed

ps. how do you think it would work if you angled the posts back to the van side... no ropes? In your case, the step might be in a good place to attach the poles without holes in the van wall.
 
#119 · (Edited by Moderator)
The Rear Awning

Pure serendipity. A couple of years ago, I bought the carcass of an REI Hobbit tent for $39 off eBay. The poles had broken and punched a hole in it. I have gotten more than my money's worth already, using fabric and notions for various projects. Today, I cut the fly in half, added two rings for the rear roof nubbins, and set it up. Reaching the nubbins was possible with a small folding stool. It needs more finessing, but this is good enough for the upcoming trip:


Because Photobucket hijacked her photos in this thread, MsNomer has created a website detailing her build: msnomersvan.wordpress.com
 
#120 · (Edited by Moderator)
The Door Handle

All credit for this goes to RD. His is higher up because of cabinetry, but it's his idea. And I'm thinking, "Why wasn't this original equipment?"

We all learn sooner or later that to close the side door, we really need to slide forward, then push in at the end. That inward push is possible from the outside, but it's not possible to pull from the inside--until you install this simple handle.

RD centered his front to rear (IIRC) above the window. We put ours just rear of center on the slope below the window. Both locations work well. It is now possible to close the door from the inside without slamming it.

I found a pewter finish solid brass handle at Lee Valley. Stainless screws, of course.
 
#121 ·
All credit for this goes to RD. His is higher up because of cabinetry, but it's his idea. And I'm thinking, "Why wasn't this original equipment?"

We all learn sooner or later that to close the side door, we really need to slide forward, then push in at the end. That inward push is possible from the outside, but it's not possible to pull from the inside--until you install this simple handle.



RD centered his front to rear (IIRC) above the window. We put ours just rear of center on the slope below the window. Both locations work well. It is now possible to close the door from the inside without slamming it.

I found a pewter finish solid brass handle at Lee Valley. Stainless screws, of course.
I found (after three months), the easiest way to close the slider door was to open the passenger door to let the air pressure out. No more 4 slams in a row.
 
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