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CR Laurence Window Install

106K views 132 replies 61 participants last post by  MB01 
#1 ·
I recently installed one of CR Laurence's Promaster specific aftermarket windows and thought I would share how it went.

I ordered my window from a local distributor and paid more than $500. Expensive, yes, but I was expecting a quality product.

I received my window quickly. This window comes with no instructions or paperwork. Just a window in a box with some screws. I called CR Laurence to ask if this was correct, which it is, and then how I should install. The very helpful tech guy told me to simply cut a hole along the factory stamped framing, insert the window, and use the clamping ring with screws to attach it. Easy, I thought.

I removed the window from the box and pretty quickly noticed that it had two defects--a couple of tweaks in the aluminum frame near the knobs that open the vents and the glass was not adhered properly to the aluminum hinge piece on one of the vents. Called CR Laurence again, sent them pictures and they quickly set up a return authorization for me with my distributor.

After I got the replacement window, I decided I would go through the trouble of checking the fit of the window before cutting a giant hole in my precious van. I am SO glad I did this and did not trust the word of CR Laurence. The window would not have been a proper fit in my factory stamped frame. I think there might be pretty loose tolerances with how these wall frames come together. I noticed this when I made some interior panels before this window project. These photos show the fit at the 4 corners of the window in comparison to the frame. The top two corners would have been about 1/2" off had I followed the instructions from CRL.

http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2593&stc=1&d=1410109893
http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2529&stc=1&d=1410109893
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http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2545&stc=1&d=1410109893

Marking the lines to cut out for the window was a painfully slow process of trial and error and double and triple checking. In the end, I used rulers and a compass as well as the clamp ring to figure out my line on the inside of the van. Then I transferred this line to the outside of the van by drilling four small holes at the center of the radius corners. I used the compass on the outside of the van to mark my radii and then the ruler to connect the tangents.

Then, I took a very deep breath and cut out the panel with my jigsaw fitted with fine metal blade. Cutting was very easy going. I taped the panel to the van as I went so that it didn't bind my blade or vibrate too much.

I was surprised at how perfect a fit I achieved. I was expecting worse with all of the transferring of lines, etc. The was a serious, serious relief.

I painted primer on my cut edges and installed the window with the clamping ring. I had to pre-drill for the clamp ring screws which took me a few minutes to realize since it appears that the aluminum frame is made for not pre-drilling.

The window is a good fit from the outside and seems to work well. No leaking from a hose test. Vents operate well, though don't close perfectly flush to each other. I can live with that. The CR Laurence placed their decal crooked on the window, so that will be coming off.

http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2537&stc=1&d=1410109893
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http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2553&stc=1&d=1410109893
 

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#2 ·
Leo,

Just dropped you a note with a question. You are doing much of what I plan, but you're one step ahead of me!

I chickened out on the window, and I plan to have the dealer put in the OEM Mopar window that's the same as the sliding door glass. I hope their shop does a good job on the details, they assure me that their guys are good!

I wanted to add a roof vent, but my clearance to our carport where i want to park it is only about 4 - 5 ". Plan B is to design a louvered vent to put in place in the metal are over the back door window glass, then set up a fan inside. Looks like it will work well if i can find the right vent louver for the outside (and paint it factory color). My PM is graphite, so I figure a vent located high and in the back will help cool it by pulling hot air along the roof.

NICE JOB on the window!

Ed
 
#4 ·
...I plan to have the dealer put in the OEM Mopar window that's the same as the sliding door glass. ...
Did you get a price on the glass? My local dealer quoted about $450. Wondering if CR Laurence might be less for fixed glass.
I also inquired at another dealer that had a van I might be interested in to see if glass and install might be covered by the upfitter allowance.
 
#9 ·
I recently had the CR Laurence Promaster window with the vents added to my side sliding door. The local glass shop did the install and did a very nice job. One thing that surprised me is that the passenger slider window really only has a single vent, the forward one is a dummy and doesn't open. The sprinter version also appears to be the same. Perhaps the front vent doesn't open to keep someone to reaching through it and opening the door with the inside handle. Also as Leo noted on his the vent glass doesn't sit up perfectly flush when closed, and the CR Laurence decal is ever so slightly crooked. Overall very happing with the install and window.
 
#11 ·
My CR Lawrence windows just arrived on a palate today and I was reviewing your post for some hints on how to get these guys installed. Thanks for the detailed pictures. Did you add any silicone or additional adhesive to the non transparent section circled in red on this picture?

I thought about this because I also ordered the rear door windows and they don't have an internal clasp retaining ring. I assume I need to glue the windows to the door? Does anyone know what I should use? Will regular silicone suffice?
 

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#15 ·
Best price is www.trucknvans.com. This is where I purchased. No tax or shipping charge.

Also, you do not use silicone or any other adhesive on these windows as the glass does not press up against the van. The trim that comes with the window goes on the inside and screws into the window, sandwiching the van skin.

See attached photos for how I did it. I used the trim piece to trace the hole and cut with a jigsaw.
 

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#16 ·
Fuzzy-

I just ordered a window for my 136 (still hasn't arrived) from Motion Windows--they offer windows made specifically for the PM I ordered the functional window for the passenger sliding door...cheaper than the all glass look window from cr laurence but more than their universal non contour windows It will be a bit of a wait, but the window looks really nice.
 
#17 ·
ST111, what is your wait time from MW? I ordered 4 windows from them yesterday and I got a wait time of 2 months.

I asked for the largest windows that would fit my 136 HR. When we visited their plant last fall, they gave me hardboard templates. Thank Goodness they did. The size they gave me absolutely would not have fit. I had to shave 1.5" width off the back windows and 1/4" off the height of all of them.

I think the paste-on windows that fill the exterior window area look a lot better, but we wanted more ventilation area, so we got the curved T style.
 
#21 ·
My CRL windows should arrive by this weekend. I ordered them from DK in FL and the price was right as well as the delivery time.

What is everyone planning / doing for window trim? On the slide side the steel that sweeps in towards the windows is solid, but on the driver's side they have all of those structural holes. What is everyone planning for covering those holes/area? It would sure be nice to have a pre-made trim part from someone. I'm sure in Europe there are many places to get one.
 
#23 ·
I'm pretty handy but know nothing about these types of materials. Do you glue them in place and mold them with a heat gun? Where do you even buy them?

I guess I need to subscribe to some type of home built RV site where people discuss materials and trims. I want to finish out the from part of the PM but looking around I see so many little corners where I think, "how am I going to trim that?"
 
#26 ·
I like the headliner material that has a foam back and flocked surface as it can cover the irregular surfaces and not show the underlying gaps and holes so much. It is available at JoAnns Fabric for $15/Yd but a 40 percent coupon is easy to get. I think the tan color keeps the interior a bit lighter but it is available in black too.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Below is a document that has specifications for 3M 77 and 90 spray adhesives:
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/682505O/3mtm-sprayable-adhesives.pdf

They say 77 is permanent and it may be for inside 'crafting' use. It dries out over time much like the adhesive on duct tape. Especially if exposed to heat. 90 is twice as strong and has a much higher heat rating. The 77 spray is a mist which goes everywhere and hangs in the air. The 90 spray is more like fine silly string and very controllable. There is no mist and a lot less over spray.

I use 77 as temporary mounting adhesive to help hold material to my vacuum table when I cut parts with the CNC router. It works well and sometimes it's even hard to remove the parts from the table. But if I wait overnight then the bond is much less and the parts pop right off.

My go to adhesives are: 3M sprays, 77 (temporary) and 90 (permanent); VHB tape; WindowWeld fast set urethane; 5200 marine sealant. Also use thick and thin CA glues. Always keep a can of 3M adhesive remover spray on hand for clean up.
 
#32 ·
jostalli,
Re: the CR Lawrence passenger slider and driver window.

You just left the gap that exists after you installed the interior frame? I followed the same steps you did but didn't like the gap that forms between the van wall and the glass. I even traded out the foam that came with the CR Lawrence windows for butyl tape to reduce the spacing. That foam window trim seemed pretty thick. Once you installed the interior trim screws was there still a noticeable gap?
 
#33 ·
jostalli,

Re: the CR Lawrence passenger slider and driver window.



You just left the gap that exists after you installed the interior frame? I followed the same steps you did but didn't like the gap that forms between the van wall and the glass. I even traded out the foam that came with the CR Lawrence windows for butyl tape to reduce the spacing. That foam window trim seemed pretty thick. Once you installed the interior trim screws was there still a noticeable gap?

Yes there is a gap even after installing the interior trim screws. Nothing to worry about. I would not remove the foam that comes glued to the window.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
#34 ·
I had an installer do two of the vent windows side by side. Went with pro installer since I did not want to mess up cutting such large holes...especially two of them.

First try they did not get them flush.

SEE SMALL GAP -Not flush


Called CR Laurence and they said should fit flush. Took it back to the installer and they said they cut tight, maybe a little to much. So they sanded down edge slowly to get the right fit and adjusted the window. End result was a perfect fit. They had never done vented before and said it was a learning experience for them on the vent windows to get them to fit right. In end all worked out, there is always a little learning curve on something new. The outfitter does a lot of windows...a few every day, but had not done the PM vented ones before my van came in.

NO GAP-Flush


Side view two vent windows side by side
 
#36 ·
I did not see them do it, but they told me they had to do it a little different than usual - mostly cutting tight and slowly trimming away to get the right fit. The first time they had it a little to tight hence the "adjustment" needed by sanding a very small amount more in the opening. They install about 2-4 windows a week, so not that inexperienced. They figured it out pretty easily - I thought first defect in window which is what they thought. The template they use for "fixed" windows just slightly to tight.
 
#37 ·
slamit,

They came out nice. I just received the non-vented side back windows for mine. Will be doing the install soon. I decided that a full size template would be a good idea, so that's in the works. I'm going to cut the hole in a piece of 1/4" plywood the size of the window, test fit the plywood, then tape it to the van and cut inside the template hole on the wall of the van.

Your results are encouraging! It's a nice look for the PM!

Ed
 
#40 ·
You should double-check this, but I think someone mentioned that the factory cut-out is a little larger than the mounting hole for the C R Laurence. I bought my PM without side glass for this reason ... more options for installing vented windows.
 
#42 ·
To clarify, the CRL suggested way to cut the side metal is to cut along the line created on the inside by the frame structure surrounding where the window would go.

In practice, the hole will be a bit too big if you cut this way. It is most apparent at the corners where the metal frame structure is not the same radius dimension as the CRL metal mounting ring. This leaves some area at the corner where the hole is a bit (1/4" +/-) too big.

Instead I created a 1/4" plywood full size template, made sure it was a good fit with the window, then taped it to the side of the van and cut the metal.... worked perfectly! It also shielded the body from scratches because the saw shoe was kept 1/4" away from the paint.:D

Illustrated on my website, cited in my signature below.

Ed
 
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