Future proofing with PEX or conduit or whatever for Webasto - Ram Promaster Forum
User Tag List

 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 5 Old 02-16-2017, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
medicineman4040
Senior Member
 
medicineman4040's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 499
Thanks: 154
Thanked 62 Times in 50 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 91 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
Future proofing with PEX or conduit or whatever for Webasto

I asked MnNomer but I think I'd like everyone's opinion who might offer one.
Next week our PM comes back to us with all the big holes cut and plugged (ac/solar/fan).
Then the she-boss and I will insulate and run wires.
Not now but in the fall we'll do the Webasto gas burner.
So to future proof we'll need to have a pathway/mechanism for the control cable.
Our Webasto will go in front of the passenger wheel well. Ideally the control cable will
need to go up the wall, over the ceiling, and down and behind the driver's seat 2-3 feet.
So, I've never handled/seen a Webasto control cable.
Will it fit 3/4 PEX tube?
If so we will 'install a 3/4 PEX tube from one side to the other during out build and put a heavy
fishing line in it for later.

Alternatively and this will be easiet.
On that side of the van (passenger's) where the Webasto will be installed, is there any reason
why I can't have the on/off/thermostat up on the wall above the unit a couple of feet ??
That means I only need to get DC to where the unit will be and I have to do that anyway.

Thanks for any/all suggestions.
medicineman4040 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 5 Old 02-16-2017, 11:02 PM
Skaggydog
Senior Member
 
Skaggydog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Southern California
Posts: 155
Thanks: 30
Thanked 37 Times in 30 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Garage
well then

you may as well think about this too...
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-e...-wire/=16dyupk

If it don't fit get a bigger hammer


2016 2500 159" Gas HT Glazed
To be a camper
Skaggydog is offline  
post #3 of 5 Old 02-17-2017, 09:37 AM
MsNomer
Senior Member
 
MsNomer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Oklahoma, USA
Posts: 1,639
Thanks: 17
Thanked 375 Times in 288 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 357 Post(s)
The runs to the battery and to the controller are in 1/2" plastic conduit, or it may even be a bit less. Very generous lengths--I have a big coil of the battery conduit under a drawer. My solution to the short run across the floor of the tunnel will simply be a piece of 3/4" wood or ply with a groove on the under side. I will hold it down with turner's double-stick tape.

More important--before you can decide where to put the heater, you must examine underneath. You will not be able to put the unit literally "in front of the passenger wheel well" because of a massive longitudinal support member. In that general area, there are two acceptable spots, before and after a cross-member. Either one puts the unit about 16" inboard. Go underneath with a piece of ply 6.25" X 7.25" (outer holes on the 7" X 8" mounting plate). Where this will fit flat against the floor, the heater should fit, but also consider surrounding structures for interferences. Use the tie-down in front of the wheel for interior-exterior approximate calibration, acknowledging that the path is skewed by the support member. Given your sliding trays, you may have to put the unit in your cabinet behind the driver.

My rheostat is fairly low on the C-pillar in the stadium-shaped hole, so it is easily reached from the head of the bed. I will post on my build thread soon. Our one night's experience (with laser thermometer) suggests this is a good position for us. There are shelves beneath the rheostat, but more relevant--the output is fairly forceful. A wall only a few inches to the side hardly gets warm. I measure no direct effect on the shelves or on the underside of the bed board 28" above and about 10" in front of the outlet.
MsNomer is offline  
The Following User Says Thank You to MsNomer For This Useful Post:
Roblee (02-17-2017)
 
post #4 of 5 Old 02-17-2017, 06:47 PM
RDinNHandAZ
Senior Member
 
RDinNHandAZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Summer in Lakes Region of NH and Winter in the Sonoran Desert of AZ
Posts: 3,286
Thanks: 373
Thanked 653 Times in 526 Posts
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 701 Post(s)
Garage
Our Espar heater air outlet is beside the porta-pottie and the outlet diffuser can be aimed. We point it up towards the thighs of the user which, for a few moments in the morning is a pleasant way to begin the day, as the van is heating up prior to coffee. Just say’n.
Oh yes the PEX cannot hurt, I’d install it.

2015 136" HT Diesel Sandstone Metallic happy with the owner conversion. See: http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/...ad.php?t=37177
Have Leatherman, Will Travel
RDinNHandAZ is offline  
post #5 of 5 Old 02-17-2017, 07:06 PM
MsNomer
Senior Member
 
MsNomer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Oklahoma, USA
Posts: 1,639
Thanks: 17
Thanked 375 Times in 288 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 357 Post(s)
I sure wish we had thought of PEX.
MsNomer is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome