Shore Power Receptacle Install - Ram Promaster Forum
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post #1 of 20 Old 07-30-2016, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
Tyler Wick
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Shore Power Receptacle Install

I completed the install of our rear bumper shore power receptacle today and wanted to share the details.

This receptacle was used: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It turns out there is an existing route from beneath the rear of the van into the cargo area wall at the rear driver's side corner. I'm guessing it is for the trailer power if you have the tow package. I decided to utilize this, and put the shore power receptacle in the rear bumper.

1) Discover that a ~1/8" steel tube runs behind the rear bumper. Think plan is thwarted. NOTE: If you do not have the parking sensors, it should be easy to mount the receptacle without touching the steel tube. If you do have the parking sensors, you might be able to avoid the steel tube by mounting the receptacle in the corner moulding at the end of the bumper, underneath the light.

2) Buy tungsten carbide grit 1-7/8" hole saw to get through that steel (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Also buy some cutting fluid to keep things lubricated while you are cutting the hole (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

3) Cut the hole. Keep it nice and slow with significant pressure on the hole saw. I had to stop and let my cheap drill cool several times. Make sure you keep the saw and steel well lubricated. Once you are through, clean up and primer the hole.



4) Route your triplex AC wire.



5) Connect to the shore power receptacle and push receptacle into the hole, flush with the bumper. I put a 2x4 over the top of the receptacle and gave it a few whacks with a hammer to get it completely flush. Drill pilot holes and use provided screws to secure the receptacle.



6) Steal power from all your friends.


Last edited by Tyler Wick; 07-31-2016 at 01:04 PM.
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post #2 of 20 Old 07-30-2016, 05:36 PM
keeponvaning
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Many of us have used the same route but there is no need to make any holes other than in the bumper for the receptacle.

2014, High Top/159 WB, 2500 gas Promaster fully converted for camping.
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post #3 of 20 Old 07-30-2016, 06:00 PM
proeddie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keeponvaning View Post
Many of us have used the same route but there is no need to make any holes other than in the bumper for the receptacle.
I was thinking the same thing...There are cutouts in the steel behind the bumper that many have used as a place to put the AC plug by just drilling thru the rubber bumper in the right spot.

I also noticed this install has the back up warning sensors in the bumper.... wondering if the holes in the steel base are for the sensors and so another hole was needed......

Inquiring minds want to know....

ed

ps. a rear facing receptacle is good, so when you forget to unplug and just drive away, no damage is done - you just leave a cord behind. Back when I had my last campervan in 1972, I did that a few times!

Working on the van, and my website about it! Please visit www.empowersites.com/edsvan

Last edited by proeddie; 07-30-2016 at 06:03 PM.
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post #4 of 20 Old 07-30-2016, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
Tyler Wick
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Yep, it's because of the sensors. The connectors for the sensors sit sideways so it blocks more of the bumper than just the sensor itself.

If may be possible to modify the sensor connector or just squeeze your receptacle right up against it, but I didn't want to risk breaking the sensor. It might also be possible to get a smaller receptacle or modify this one so it needs less bumper real estate.

-Tyler
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post #5 of 20 Old 01-03-2017, 11:53 PM
medicineman4040
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Tyler, anyone. I went to the Amazon link to get this A/C plug-in en route to have it on hand for when we get to that point but the link was dead.
This is the closest looking one to the pictures above, think it is the right one or close enough?
https://www.amazon.com/ParkPower-Mar...G745AVWQ64Q4AK
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post #6 of 20 Old 01-04-2017, 12:27 AM
keeponvaning
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They are all about the same. You might get a better quality one by paying more or you might not. That price seems about average. The caps tend to not stay tight after a while but it doesn't seem to make any difference (at least on mine).

2014, High Top/159 WB, 2500 gas Promaster fully converted for camping.
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post #7 of 20 Old 01-04-2017, 12:35 AM
Roblee
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Sucks that the black Marinco one wants $13 shipping. The $20 black is out of stock. There is a Minnkota brand black for $15 inc shipping with Prime.
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post #8 of 20 Old 01-04-2017, 10:33 AM
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Garage
I’d also add that Romex is not my first choice for this application now that I have been informed that all wire in a vibrating vehicle should be stranded. Perhaps type MTW, or THHN in some flex conduit? Now for full disclosure I did run romex from my shore power entrance to my RV converter/fuse panel, and I hope some smarter electrician type posts up to help us all.

2015 136" HT Diesel Sandstone Metallic happy with the owner conversion. See: http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/...ad.php?t=37177
Have Leatherman, Will Travel
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post #9 of 20 Old 01-04-2017, 10:55 AM
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post #10 of 20 Old 01-04-2017, 11:06 AM
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Here is what Rialta motorhome owners did for shore power instead of running the power cord thru a hole in the storage compartment. This was for a 30amp power cord.
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File Type: jpg Outside Electrical Plug Reduced Size.jpg (102.2 KB, 72 views)

Last edited by mloganusda; 01-04-2017 at 11:09 AM. Reason: photos
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